Last night I found myself surrounded by a mob of credo wailing, high-stepping, fist-waving, fight melody chorusing members of the Red Army.
Ok, so in fact they weren't really Red Army, just waiters and waitresses dressed to look and act the part and the mob wasn't a real mob, but rather 40 and 50-somethings gathered for a "blast from the glory days of the China Republic and Mao Zedong." Even so, I had to keep reminding myself that this is in fact 2008 and outside of this little restaurant designed to keep alive the spirit of the good old Communist days is a country developing away this period of history.
The majority of the patrons were about the same age as my parents. Workers and party members who came of age in the 1970's, who for most, if not all of their development years, lived and breathed the People's spirited march melodies, the playskits villifying the ugly Japanese and the slimey traitors who helped them, the choruses warning of the filthy Imperialist devils and of course, the many many chants and cries dedicated to The Great Chairman. I was mezmorized.
And oh did they sing. What was nostalgia for them was for me a glimpse into a world that few outside of China have any real conception of, a world that is impossible to relate to for anyone who's never experienced that sort of centrally regimented society. The girls, looking so innocent with their mandatory pigtail braids, the boys, so young in their shapeless green fatigues. Each little comrade singing with as much gusto and spirit as they can muster, swinging their arms and marching and saluting with perfectly timed precision and focus. My friend who accompanied me said that this was the type of entertainment that was broadcast every night, the same songs that greeted children at birth, sung on command at all hours of the day and used as a means of fostering and tying people together by their love of country and the Communist party.
I grew up under the influence of American media which has, for the sake of simplicity, labeled all things Red, Marxist or Maoist as (in the words of Elmer Fudd) "ve-wy ve-wy bad" and the Cultural Revolution as one of the worst periods of tyranny and oppression in human history. Imagine my cultural dilemma, thus when I arrive in China to find very sane and practical people who possess an ardent love for Chairman Mao and who remember that "terrible" period with genuine fondness and nostalgia, as being a time when yes, people were poor and we had to work very hard, but things were simple, people were stronger and life was complete. (More about this another time.)
Cultural relativism aside, I found the experience at this restaurant to be an unintentional cross-section of old and new China. Essentially you have young people, around my age, singing and marching and reenacting the past for the old timers who for whatever reason either miss or want to re-experience the good old days. You also have the mid-lifers who have some memories of the experience and their under 10 kids who have absolutely no historical experience, but hey who doesn't like energetic singing and a spirited band complete with drums, trumpet, flute and lahu (two stringed traditional upright Chinese violin: this woman was the most fantastic erhu player I've ever seen. She stood up and did a rocking solo riff. Idol. Seriously.)
The songs being as patriotic as they were and the revelers being as swept up in the "hooray for being Chinese" sentiment, I was a little anxious about showing too much of my blond head. Yes certainly people looked at me with maybe a little more curiosity than normal but for the most part, people were just as friendly and welcoming as they always are. Occasionally the men would salute me and one of the actresses even came up to shake MY hand as she was going around the room letting people shake hers. But I guess it's one of why wouldn't people be friendly? They're the same people I see everyday on the street and it's not like any of this is real anyway, at least not anymore.
I looked over at one point and noticed a waiter standing in the alcove near my table who was air-drumming in time with the drummer on stage. He was maybe a year or two younger than me and he had that look I've seen so many times before on people my age with a dream for something bigger. I watched him for a few moments until the door next to him opened and another waitress came out. He abruptly stopped drumming and I smiled to myself for the opportunity to steal a glimpse of his private moment when he thought no one was watching.
At the end of the day, for better or worse, the patrons leave the sweet respite of their memories and go back to their modern lives. The staff exchange their uniforms for Levis and Nikes and return to the present, with all the same hopes and dreams, frustrations and struggles.